Bharatanatyam, the renowned south Indian classical dance form, is noted for its graceful movements and poignant expressions. The grace and elegance of this magnificent art form is augmented by the beauty and variety of the jewellery worn by the artists. The distinctiveness of the ornaments maintains the tradition of this wonderful art form.

Temple jewellery is the common name by which the characteristic ornaments used in Bharatanatyam are known. Originally these ornaments were created as offerings to Gods and Goddesses and hence the name. Later the temple dancers, devadasis, wore the jewellery. Today, the temple jewellery is worn by south Indian brides at their wedding. Silver is the primary metal used to craft these intricate ornaments which are later dipped in gold to render gleam and glitter. These ornaments are further bejewelled with gem stones mostly in red and green colours. Bharata muni’s Natyasastra (scripture of dance) enlists the type of jewellery to be worn by a Bharatanatyam dancer.

The dancers often embellish themselves with at least ten pieces of the jewellery such as necklaces, chokers, bracelets, waist bands, earrings, nose rings, and three hair ornaments. The main adornments worn by the Bharatanatyam dancers are matha patti (head set),  raakodi (Jura pin), Addigai (choker), Maalai, Nath (nose ring), jhumiki (earrings), Mattal or matti, Oddiyanam (waist chain), Salangai (ankle bells) and vanki. The dancer wears two brooch-like ornaments that symbolize the moon and sun to the left and right of the central parting of the hair.

Head and face ornaments
Matha patti or head set together with the chandran, sooryan and netti chutti comprises the head set. The Netri Chutti as it is known in Tamil goes around the head at the forehead level with a special piece made to fit over the central hair parting with a pendant hanging over the forehead. Two circular pieces of stone jewellery called Chandran (moon) and Sooryan (sun) are placed on both sides of the parting. The Raakodi or Jura pin with its brilliant stone works is placed just between the crown of the forehead and the braided hair.

Jhumiki or earrings, the hanging inverted umbrella-like earring with upward extension, comes with red and green stonework and pearls. These hanging earrings are strung onto mattal (a stone-studded chain) secured onto the hair on either side. Mattal connects the side hair and the earring and covers the ears of the dancer. Along with the mookkuthi (nose ring) nath or bullakku is fastened on to the nostril just above the upper lip.

Neck and waist ornaments
The neck ornaments include Addigai (choker) and Maalai (long chain). Addigai, a short necklace or choker made of pearls and rubies decorate the neck along with a long gold necklace called Kaasu maalai.

Oddiyanam (waist chain) is a magnificent piece of ornament in gold with a centre-piece featuring goddesses or some abstract images. The centre-piece is also encrusted with diamonds and rubies in some cases. Oddiyanam is worn to hold the sari up and provides a slimmer waist appearance.

Mudras or hand gestures play a significant part in all Indian classical dance forms including Bharatanatyam. Bangles and rings studded with resplendent stones and vanki (wrist band) bedeck the hands and fingers of the dancer.

Leg ornaments
Salangai or ghungroo (ankle bells) worn around the ankles, make the rhythmic foot works of dance movements audible. It constitutes the most important part of the Bharatanatyam costume. Salangai is never worn casually and is worshipped on special occasions.

In addition to their principal use and function as embellishments these temple ornaments have deeper mythological and scientific significance. The Sooryan and Chandran worn on either side of the head are symbolic of invoking the sun and moon gods respectively by which the dancer can commence her feat with the blessings and boons of these celestial gods.

The Rakkodi, the prime hair ornament, is said to have migraine curing properties. If the earlobe was pierced at a particular point and good gold ear jewellery was worn, it was known to provide good eyesight. Furthermore the nose ring or nose stud is believed to have properties that retard cancer and related maladies.

Thus ornaments unarguably play a decisive role in enriching each and every Bharatanatyam performance. The intricate and precise hand gestures and bodily movements of the dancers are made more perceptible with the aid of ornaments. Together these ornaments supplement the splendor and magnetism of Bharatanatyam.